usmctaz13

Been at this beast for a while! I have checked the fuel pressure, got it. It starts fine idles fine and drives fine for about two miles the it quits. It acts like I am loosing spark or fuel but I know the fuel is there and the coil is new along with the ignition controle module. I am at a loss, can anyone give me a clue?! Thanks

klricks

Check the EGR valve. If it sticks open can cause stalling. If you have a vacuum source electric or hand pump you can attach that to the air port and actuate it to see if it is moving freely. Or you can remove the pipe from the bottom and press the plunger up with your finger. It should move back down (close) when released.
Be very careful with the EGR to manifold pipe, it can be broken failily easily BTDT.
Best way would be to loosen the coller. Then remove the 2 bolts and take the EGR valve completely out. Avoild bending the pipe as much as possiible. I put penitrating oil on the threads overnight and then heated with a blow torch.
If you remove the EGR valve you will need a new gasket - $2.

My EGR has stuck closed a couple of times. Once a smog check technician took a pipe an beat on the EGR valve to get it unstuck.

Good old Bill

Another part of the primary circuit is the pick up coil inside the distributor, its a little delicate to dismantle the gear drive for replacement. Believe auto parts sells the complete distributor as an assembly.

apexpredator

I know this sounds crazy but I am going to suggest that you check the voltage regulator if it is mounted to the alternator, if you put your hand on it and it comes back black and or gooey, you may have just found your problem. I found this problem on 4 different 1986-1989 F150 trucks in the same fleet, used in the same manner, all at the same company, if the battery goes weak, these regulators have a tendency to overheat and will tend to work while cool and then shut down, which in turn shuts the truck down, engine will crank but will not restart until it cools off. Also suggest that if you want to be sure of what component may be malfunctioning when hot, get some freeze spray from Radio Shack and hit the component you suspect is causing the trouble, taking each component in turn, the ignition module, fuel pump relay, Alternator mounted voltage regulator, ignition coil, pick up in distributor, starter solenoid. I would also check the ignition switch, I had a customer that had this same problem and none of the above checks found the problem, the only thing left was the ignition switch or ICM, replaced the switch and problem was solved.

randomdude

i have a thread a few down about a simalar problem. i guess ill check my regulator also.

is yours random? sometimes a mile, sometimes 2 days? does it make a differance if you drive it harder?

usmctaz13

Thanks for all the help guys, I have already replaced the distributor, I think my egr tube is busted, can i remove it all together with a dummy switch? I will also check for an external voltage regulator, thanks

Good old Bill

When is this engine stalling, at stops or slowing down to stops or at cruise? EGR will not make an engine quit at cruise speeds, thats when its supposed to be functioning.

klricks

No the electrical part of the EGR is more than a simple switch. It is a variable resistor with center tap. It lets the ECU (computer) know what position the EGR is in. The ECU may throw a code and/or check engine light if it does not detect the proper resistance at the proper time. No big deal unless you are in a EPA mandated smog area as it will not pass smog test.

If the tube is busted it would act like a huge air leak into the exhaust manifold all the time. Then when the engine warmed up the EGR would open and let air into the throttle body/ intake.

The tube is two solid 5/8" dia. pipes joined in the middle by a 3" piece of corrugated flexible tube. That piece is crimped onto the solid pipe sections. The tube tends to come apart at the crimp(s). The Ford stealer want $89 and some change for the pipe.

If you want to disable the EGR, you would need to block both the manifold port and the throttle body port. For the TB port you could just leave the EGR in-place with it's vacuum line disconnected.
I think there are EGR bypass or plug kits out there for some engines??

I am currently trying to find a way to fix my EGR pipe which is broken at both crimps. Any one have any ideas?

usmctaz13

Thanks for the info on the egr, I dont think it is the issue from what bill said, the truck can be going down the road and it is like it just stops getting fuel, sputters, and if i try to give it gas it starts to die faster like its running really lean and backfireing.

klricks

I agree with Bill, in a normal situation where the EGR may be sticking open or not functioning properly, but you said that your EGR pipe was broken, and that is a different thing altogether. If the pipe was broken then when the EGR opens it would be like putting a big hole in your intake plenum just behind the throttle body. Not sure what problems that would cause? When I get mine all put back together I will try it and see what happens with the pipe disconnected.

I have had a fuel problem in the past that is similar to what you describe. I could not go faster than about 50 mph. Then would start to sputter and die out. Turned out to be the fuel filter in the tank switching valve reservoir thing down on the frame rail. I had the replace the filter 2 or 3 times until I changed out the value with an aftermarket electric valve.