01SilverCrew

Hey guys, well like many of you probably have, my door locks were very weak and took three or four times to lock or unlock my doors. Well I got sick of it and decided to try and replace mine. There was no write up really that I found so I gave it a shot.

I just ordered this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Ford-Me...ef6ea9&vxp=mtr for my front two doors to make sure that was the problem. I took off the door pannel and found the bracket that the actuator was attached to. There is kind of a rivet that holds it on that I just hit in with a hammer and pried it off with a screwdriver (First picture, one on the right). Then you need to get the electical wires off the braket, just pulled on those and came off. Also unplug them from the old actuator. Now you need to get the metal u shaped hanger that comes out of the top of the actuator out of the connector that attaches the rod to the lock (Second picture). I just bent the hanger and twisted it every way I could to get it to come out since a new one comes with the kit. Then the old actuator should be out. You need to take the bracket off of the old actuator by prying it off (Third picture) and put it on the new one over the groves above my thumb (Fourth picture). Hook the new hanger where you took the old one off of, then attach the new actuator to it. Line up the notch from the bracket through the hole in the door along with the hole where you took off the rivet. Get a new bolt and stick it through that hole and tighten up. Plug back in the electrical and see the magic! So much of a difference, glad I did it!!! Any questions let me know Ill try and answer them for you.

01SilverCrew

Was it that bad?! haha

Almighty

do you know what size bolt you used to replace the rivet?

01SilverCrew

3/8" I believe

AzNative

Nice!!

thef150guy

Hey guys, sorry to bring back an old thread but I'm stuck on this one. I'm doing the actuator on my drivers door. I got the Dorman replacement and with it came several of the rods that connect the actuator to the lock. Im just wondering if anyone knows which one to use, and how to connect them by the lock. I can't get the one I think it it's since there's not enough space inside the door. Looking for anyone who knows our had done this before. Thanks again.

01SilverCrew

Take the old one out then use the rod that is the same size and shape as the old one

Guaitiao

To remove the rivet without making any paint or metal damage, Hit the insert (screw) of the rivet with a center punch until it sits back or until it is ejected, drill the rivet with a 17/64" (0.265") bit but not too far to damage the actuator base and it will come out without with any more effort. I recommend to use a 6mm or 1/4" screw with a lock nut to secure the actuator if you can not use a a riveter and re-install an original rivet or a replacement rivet. The actuator will come loose if it is not properly secured to the door. That is why Ford use the rivet and not the screw. You also can use a steel or alum rivet nut or screw stud and create a permanent nut or stud type actuator base, but this will not ensure it will not be loose if you do not use a lock-tight blue sealant or equivalent.

Just in case you need to know, Mine are YL3A-1626595-AB, for a 2001 f150 SupperCrew Cab 4x4 rear LH door.

These are the replacement parts.
***DORMAN 746-157 LH/RH Front Doors
***DORMAN 746-183 RH Rear Door Passenger
***DORMAN 746-184 LH Rear Driver

If you do not have the budget ($200 to $300) to change them all, but have some small parts handling skills, then you could consider to change only the Actuators DC Flat Motor 2mm Dia x 6mm Knurled Shaft Number 20730-8A1458 (24 Dia X 18 high x 27 L) with 10.6mm electrical terminal socket at the back. They are about $5 each, however skills are necessary to open the Lock Actuator Plastic case without broken it. Just carefully pry at the case by the side of four holes with a knife or a blade. It will be loose after small cut with a blade and small pry force. Consider changing the Door LH Driver side Switch since generally when the motors are failing or gone the SW is very close to fail too...Good Luck...

Guaitiao

Here are some pics;

Guaitiao

I am still looking for the proper motor number to see if I can find a replacement. I know that the brushes are available for this type of motors. These motors can easily be fixed by changing its two brushes....But again if you have the budget....Go ahead and replace the complete lock actuator. Mine are all four failing after the first one started failing some time ago.

BY THE WAY..YL3A-1626595-AB IS NOT RECOGNIZED AS VALID PART NUMBER....According to Ford my part numbers are:
1. F75Z-78218A43-AA Actuator Assy front door, (SuperCrew) Location: Driver Side
Replaced by: 2L1Z-78218A43-BA

2. F85Z-78218A42-AA Actuator Assy front door, (SuperCrew) Location: Passenger Side
Replaced by: 1L1Z-78218A42-AA

3.YL3Z-16218A42-AA Actuator Assy rear door, (SuperCrew) Location: Passenger Side
Replaced by: 1L3Z-16218A42-BA

4. YL3Z-16218A43-AA Actuator Assy rear door, (SuperCrew) Location: Driver Side
Replaced by: 1L3Z-16218A43-BA