Gas hand doesn't work
#2
Senior Member
Engine size? EFI or Carb?
Need more detail as to what exactly you are seeing.
Does the gauge stay on E or F all the time? Erratic or jumping around? etc.
Do both the oil pressure and coolant temp gauges work? If not then there is a problem with the voltage source in the instrument panel. They are all 3 powered by the same source.
If they are good then next thing to do is disconnect the tank connector and use a test light or volt meter to test the sender pin on the connector.
Could be sender most likely or wiring / connectors between the gauge and tank(s) or bad grounding of senders.
If you have dual tanks then the dash switch could be bad as well.
I have more details at the link in my signature.
Need more detail as to what exactly you are seeing.
Does the gauge stay on E or F all the time? Erratic or jumping around? etc.
Do both the oil pressure and coolant temp gauges work? If not then there is a problem with the voltage source in the instrument panel. They are all 3 powered by the same source.
If they are good then next thing to do is disconnect the tank connector and use a test light or volt meter to test the sender pin on the connector.
Could be sender most likely or wiring / connectors between the gauge and tank(s) or bad grounding of senders.
If you have dual tanks then the dash switch could be bad as well.
I have more details at the link in my signature.
#3
Engine size? EFI or Carb?
Need more detail as to what exactly you are seeing.
Does the gauge stay on E or F all the time? Erratic or jumping around? etc.
Do both the oil pressure and coolant temp gauges work? If not then there is a problem with the voltage source in the instrument panel. They are all 3 powered by the same source.
If they are good then next thing to do is disconnect the tank connector and use a test light or volt meter to test the sender pin on the connector.
Could be sender most likely or wiring / connectors between the gauge and tank(s) or bad grounding of senders.
If you have dual tanks then the dash switch could be bad as well.
I have more details at the link in my signature.
Need more detail as to what exactly you are seeing.
Does the gauge stay on E or F all the time? Erratic or jumping around? etc.
Do both the oil pressure and coolant temp gauges work? If not then there is a problem with the voltage source in the instrument panel. They are all 3 powered by the same source.
If they are good then next thing to do is disconnect the tank connector and use a test light or volt meter to test the sender pin on the connector.
Could be sender most likely or wiring / connectors between the gauge and tank(s) or bad grounding of senders.
If you have dual tanks then the dash switch could be bad as well.
I have more details at the link in my signature.
1985 F150, 4 speed, 4.9, Carb, single tank. Everything else works the Temp and voltage both work good. where would i buy a sender at if that is the problem?
#4
Senior Member
Am likeing the infor put up by kilricks, good stuff, pay attention to him. Further info if you are interested. Remove the connector at the sender, 10 ohms resistance is required for the high reading, 73 ohms is the low reading. Back 40 years ago, we (Ford) used a variable resistor test box to calibrate the gauges, thus the readings provided. Its solid info, not just pulled out of my lower portal.
#5
Senior
Some ideas for testing
I bounced between the two test because the only differance st where the resistor is connected, for the oil pressure gauge, or fuel gauge, it is done at there sending unit lead wire and ground.
Hope this will also help you fix you problem
Last edited by GhostriderI; 04-15-2012 at 06:02 PM. Reason: More Info