Charging Problems
#1
Grampajac
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Location: Louisville, kY
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Charging Problems
I posted a few days ago, and received some great advice. After taking that advice, I am now needing some more steps to locate the problem. (recap) New batt., Alt tested good, batt drains in a couple of days if left connected. I tested the batt unconnected it was 12.34v. batt fully connected tested 12.17v. started eng. no other load 14.79v, loaded w/air, radio, lights etc, read 12.15v.
Amps from neg post to neg lead eng. off, 3.25 amps. I started pulling all the fuses, one at a time, and amps read 3.25 till I pulled number 8, (inter lights, radio) and the amps fell to 1.37. After pulling the rest, it still reads 1.37 amps.
I probably should take it to the shop, and let the professionals look at it, but now it's become PERSONAL.
Hope that some one has a few more ideas for me....
grampajac
Amps from neg post to neg lead eng. off, 3.25 amps. I started pulling all the fuses, one at a time, and amps read 3.25 till I pulled number 8, (inter lights, radio) and the amps fell to 1.37. After pulling the rest, it still reads 1.37 amps.
I probably should take it to the shop, and let the professionals look at it, but now it's become PERSONAL.
Hope that some one has a few more ideas for me....
grampajac
#2
Senior Member
Do you own your truck since it was new? I'm asking because i'm trying to figure out what extra electrical devices can be installed. You have 22.5Watt power consumption in the cab, it's close to a big lamp (like one in a front turn signal), and you have 16Watt consumption for some unprotected circuit. May be you have an alarm system or sound amplifier installed ? Does your stereo unit turn off when you remove the key from ignition? 1.4 Amps is very little for a shortcut current.
#3
Grampajac
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I have had the truck since 1994. All original still. Same radio, that turns off with key. No alarm, no extra electrical items added. I took out the radio last week to see if possibly there was a wire shorting out nothig showed up....
grampajac
grampajac
#4
Senior Member
Let's try it from another end then. Do all of electrical items work properly? Including cab buzzer, horn, reverse lights, hazard lights and wipers/windshield washer? My guess is there's some stuck relay or something switched by (-) somehow gets power, so something is working all the time in silence. It can't be just a relay - it consumes only about 0.3-0.4 amps by itself. I can't figure out what it can be, because all circuits see, to be protected by fuses. Anyway try to remove all the relays and measure the current - just in case.
#5
Grampajac
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Checked the horn and other items, all work, (except that the door open and seat belt bell is so faint, you can barely hear it). I had to put the #8 fuse back in to check items though.....
Grampajac
Grampajac
#6
Senior Member
I can't stop thinking about your truck... Did you check the body grounding connection? Try to put a jumper wire or any other wire between battery (-) and body grounding connector or any metal body part without any paint. At that time current can be measured in a (+) battery circuit.
#7
Senior Member
Back in town, been off since thursday spending time with two grandsons. Had a great time but very tiring. Need the rest. According to the posts, you are using the ammeter correctly. Continue the process of elimination, don't forget the fuseable links. The 3.25 amp draw is excessive. Really like Pavel's (Fast Hampster) reverse thinking attack as to the problem. You said the door warning and seat belt warning is barely heard. How long has that been going on? If quite awhile, chances are their not our problem. Gut feeling says some system with keep alive memory is the culprit. Get back with you again tomorrow.
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#8
Grampajac
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I don't know if it is anything or not, but I take the neg cable off when I park my truck each day. Each time I hook it back up, I hear a noise (kind of sounds like fuel pump coming on), for just about 5 seconds. Also the door and seat belt started about the same time as the pull on the battery started. Just thought I throw these in, case it made a difference.
#9
I Voted For Bill and Opus
That sounds like a bad ignition switch. The 412 Volkwagen was infamous for this problem and it behaved just like the troubles you are having. unplug the ignition switch and see if this current draw doesn't go away.
#10
1977 f150 ranger xlt charging problems
Hi to all
I am new to the group but have a problem the same as this one, the truck runs several trips around town for a couple of days and then starts running lumpy, and finally dies and wont start at all, battery is totally dead and requires charging. It has a new alernator,solenoid and voltage regulator. Which side of the solenoid should the alternator lead be ?? maybe i got wires crossed somewhere. something somewhere is draining the battery. I am from the UK and not used to US 70's technology!
Help me please...
Mike
Cheyenne
I am new to the group but have a problem the same as this one, the truck runs several trips around town for a couple of days and then starts running lumpy, and finally dies and wont start at all, battery is totally dead and requires charging. It has a new alernator,solenoid and voltage regulator. Which side of the solenoid should the alternator lead be ?? maybe i got wires crossed somewhere. something somewhere is draining the battery. I am from the UK and not used to US 70's technology!
Help me please...
Mike
Cheyenne